Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Twinkle Tunic

As fall wears on, we have finally started to get cool weather in the Chicago area (rejoice long-distance runners!) ushering in the start of my favorite time of year: Sweater Season!  My love of sweaters has only increased with knitting experience, and it usually takes all my willpower to avoid spending my entire paycheck on the first ones of the season that I see!  (Reminding myself of the entire dresser I have that’s devoted to sweaters usually helps).  Cables and bobbles and Fair Isle all beckon me dangerously.  Must resist urge to knit!
Bobbled Tunic
While flipping through my many back issues of Vogue Knitting, I came across one of my favorite (visually) sweaters in the Holiday 2006 issue.  It is a beautiful chunky tunic by Twinkle featuring the characteristic use of reverse-Stockinette stitch and big yarn (the pattern calls for Cascade’s “Magnum”) for a quick knit.  The pattern features a cabled bobble pattern down the front of the tunic, a bobble vine down both sleeves, a front sweatshirt-like pocket, ribbed detailing and a yoked collar.  

I’ll be the first to admit that I have a thing for Twinkle sweaters; this pattern especially appealed to me because of its stylish ease (it is proportioned to fit like your favorite sweatshirt, but is infinitely more stylish) and the bobbled texture).  However, I had avoided making it because of the expense.  Magnum is a beautiful yarn, but at $20.00/skein (that’s an $80.00 sweater even if you are super skinny) it’s out of my price range.  Then I wondered if I could achieve the same expensive look and texture of the sweater, but with something a lot cheaper.
Enter the purple Vanna’s Choice by Lion Brand Yarn at the bottom of my stash basket.  I’d had this yarn for a couple years as a birthday present from my grandmother, but hadn’t found the right sweater to make from it.  I started playing with it, and discovered that when two strands were held together, the knitted texture was almost as big and fluffy as the texture in most bulky Twinkle knits.  I used 7 skeins to complete my sweater (with plenty of leftovers) at $2.50/skein (Michael’s seems to have the best sale prices on commercially prepared acrylic yarns) which adds up to a $17.50 sweater.  Hello bargain knitting!* 
For the bobbled tunic, I used a size 15 needle; the original pattern calls for a size 17, but I found this texture with the double Vanna’s to be a little loose.  Because I used a smaller needle size, I followed the stitch directions for the large size, and the measurement directions for the small size (my size!) for the body.  However, when I tried knitting the sleeves in this way, they were much too loose, so I followed the stitch directions for the medium size on them. 

The pattern also had some weird measurements for the collar portion of the directions; the pattern suggests that for all sizes, the collar should be worked in Stockinette stitch for 4 inches after the initial decrease round, before completing the rest of the yoke shaping.  However, when I did this, the point where the stitching texture switches from reverse-Stockinette to Stockinette fell directly on my bust line instead of above it.  So, I ripped back and worked 5 more rounds of rev.-St. stitch (logically extending the cabled pattern at the front) including the first round of decrease shaping for the collar.  I then switched to Stockinette for 2 rounds before following the yoke decreases.  The pattern suggests that the final collar measurements for all sizes should be 11 inches, which seems pretty silly to me as the distance from above the bust line to the collarbone will differ for taller or shorter women (and different sizes).  My completed collar measures 10 ½ inches, with all shaping worked over 4 inches.
Overall, I’m very happy with the way the tunic turned out.  It knit up really quickly (I finished it over a couple days) and is warm and cozy, perfect for the Chicago fall!
*Note: Generally, when knitting, I prefer wools over acrylics because of the lasting quality 100% wools have over acrylic and acrylic blend yarns.  The sweaters that I’ve knitted in acrylics and blends (especially Lion Brand wool-ease) may be easy to clean and cheap, but they fuzz, loose shape and wear noticeably over time.  I’m hoping that Vanna’s will wear much better because it is 100% acrylic.

Monday, October 3, 2011

Pillowcase Pattern

It’s October, and signs of the fall season are now totally unavoidable; everywhere there are trees bursting into colors, there’s a nippy chill in the air, and my annual favorite, the pumpkin spice latte, is back at coffee shops everywhere!  So as you dig out your sweaters, woolly socks and heavy quilts, consider getting out your flannel too, for some cozy pillow cases!
Flannel Pillowcases
On my first year out of school I decided to make a quilt for my man’s birthday, and to ensure that he would like it, I had him choose the fabrics (sewers and quilters of the world rejoice, a non-sewer entered a fabric store without much complaining and eye-rolling!).  After dragging him away from the polar fleece several times (I tried explaining that polar fleece is not suitable for a quilt) he settled on some manly flannels.   The subsequent quilt was a huge success, so much that he has only allowed it to leave his bed to be cleaned once!
This year, with fall coming on, I started looking at the leftover fabrics from his quilt and realized there was enough for two cozy, flannel pillowcases.  I took my measurements from a standard pillowcase and sewed up both pillowcases in a matter of hours; instant gratification is delicious!  This would be a great project for a beginner sewer, or a quick housewarming gift since it would be very easy to personalize the pillowcases with almost any kind of fabric.  Please note that the fabric amounts are for two standard pillowcases. 
Important Notes:
·         All seam allowances are for ½ inch.
·         All measurements are in inches.
Fabric:

Main Fabric: 1 ½ yard (I’d recommend buying at least 2 yd for one way, stripe or plaid designs; as you can see on my pillows, I did not have enough fabric to match up the plaid pattern.)
Contrast Fabric A: ¼ yd
Contrast Fabric B: ¼  yd
Cutting Instructions:
Main Fabric:
                 Cut 2 rectangles measuring 22.5” x 39”
                Cut 2 rectangles measuring 9” x 39”
Contrast Fabric A:           
                Cut 2 rectangles measuring 4” x 39”
Contrast Fabric B:           
                Cut 2 rectangles measuring 3” x 39”
Pillow Assembly:
1.       Wash and dry all fabrics thoroughly; this will prevent odd shrinkage and/or dye bleeding later on.
2.       Iron all fabrics.
3.       Cut out all fabrics according to the listed dimensions.
4.       With right sides together, pin the large main fabric rectangle to the contrast fabric A along one of the 39 inch edges.  Sew this seam.

5.       With right sides together, pin the small main fabric rectangle to the contrast fabric B along one of the 39 inch edges.  Sew this seam.

6.       With right sides together, pin the contrast fabric A to the contrast fabric B along their remaining 39 inch edges.  Sew this seam.
7.       Iron all previous seams flat, so that the seam allowances are towards the small main fabric rectangle.
8.       Finish all seams (I would recommend using a surger to finish the seams, or using the zig zag stitch on your regular sewing machine).
9.       Fold the pillow in half, matching up the seams, and corners of the pillow and pin the edges together.  Sew these seams (along the closed end, which is 39” and side of the pillow, which is now 30.5”).
10.   Finish these seams.
11.   Pin the remaining raw edge (the pillowcase’s opening) at ½ inch, and iron.
12.   Pin the folded edge of the pillow to the nearest seam allowance (from the seam between the small main fabric rectangle and contrast fabric B)so that the folded edge is lined up just below the seam, so the seam’s stitches are visible.

13.   Hand sew (using an invisible stitch) the pillowcase’s folded edge to this seam allowance.
14.   Turn the pillowcase right-side out, and iron.
15.   Repeat directions 4-14 for your second pillowcase.
16.   Congratulations, you’re done!  Put your pillowcases on your pillows and take a celebratory nap!